Reims

Yesterday I left Paris to go to Reims. When I looked at a train schedule, I had my hopes of traveling around France dashed by realizing the TGV actually takes about 8 hours for most of the trips! So I'm just heading east at this point, and tomorrow I'll go to Strasbourg, where there is an organ that Mozart played upon.

Reims is in the Champagne region; later today I'm going to visit a champagne cave. It also seems to be a big beer brewing town. I ate dinner last night at Les 3 Brasseurs, which is a microbrewery. Their beer isn't outstanding by the standards of American microbrewing, but it is a worthy effort. The food was the best (and most decadent) I've had yet in France: I had a "Welsh", which it turns out is Welsh rarebit on bread with ham and an egg!

Reims also has a gigantic beautiful cathedral. It's without doubt the best church I've seen yet. I think you could probably line up my apartment structure 3 times and fit it inside this church with plenty of spare room (and more room on top!)

I really prefer the small towns to Paris. They're cleaner, a bit cheaper, the people are much nicer, and they're less touristy. And yet all the good points of Paris are still here: French tradition, beautiful architecture, etc.

I thought I'd have more time to blog when I got done with the academy, but it turns out that being a tourist is just as busy! You really have to fit in as much sight-seeing and activities as possible. So I'll have more pictures eventually, but for now I just don't have the time (or energy) to edit and upload them - maybe I can take care of that on the train tomorrow.

Cavaille-Coll!

I'm far too tired from the train breaking down on the way back to format pictures and write a detailed story, but today I played the unaltered 1885 Cavaille-Coll at L'Abbaye aux Hommes in Caen! It was one of the most fantastic organs I've ever played. The town itself (and Normandy) was quite wonderful, with an interesting history, beautiful churches, and a castle!

Paris Churches

What is there to say on my 3rd night in Paris? Perhaps too much. I'm in one of the most celebrated vacation attractions in the world right now. I think I'll perhaps share a bit of themed travel advice to accompany some pictures.

My advice is to see the small churches of Paris. Notre Dame was underwhelming for me. Perhaps it's from being in massive Dutch churches for the past few weeks, or my dislike of tourists, but it really didn't do much for me, aside from the organ playing. Speaking of which, I did get to go to the loft and watch the titulaire organist improvise the Mass, which was incredible! Volumes have been spilled about his talent. But I'm staying near some wonderful churches in the Latin Quarter, and I highly recommend that anyone visiting Paris avoid the long lines and poor comportment of the crowds at Notre Dame and look for a church in their neighborhood. Here's a few I've seen so far - I've decided to forego editing and just post the raw photos:


Ok, it's kinda big...


Waiting in line... if you know me, you know that I despise waiting in lines. This was by the time I got halfway through the line.


The only part worth the wait! ...ok, the choir organ was cool too.


This was the most exciting part: seeing the original Cavaille-Coll console!!!

St. Severin

This is a beautiful church dating in part from the 14th century. I discovered this church while wandering the Latin Quarter. It's right in the middle of all the restaurants.




In Europe or the US, I walk into any church backwards so that I can see the organ!




I was reminded of the old quote from Luther, something about there being enough finger bones of St. John the Baptist in Germany to build a new cathedral.

St. Nicolas-du-Chardonnet

This church is in fact across the street from my hotel! After exploring for a while (and noticing an absence of a Low Altar), I realized this church is run by the schismatic Catholic group SSPX. There were 3 organs that I counted; a grand orgue, choir organ, and for some reason an Allen electronic organ.




An obscured view (I had to rest my camera on something to keep it steady) of the choir organ.


The priest was preparing for a Requiem Mass; you may notice the black altar dressings.

St. Germain-des-Pres




It has really beautiful stained glass!


The case strikes me as Germanic, but this is a French Classic organ.


I've developed an unhealthy fixation with choir organs.

I have many more photos, but I thought a general photo dump with some background would keep people happy. Au revoir!

Bonjour, Paris!

Yesterday I arrived in Paris. I should have more time and energy to blog now that the Haarlem Festival is over! I'll wrap up with a few more photos from there, then start sharing my French experiences (and I already have a few)

I think last Tuesday (not sure) we went to the Laurenskerk in Alkmaar to hear a recital on their organ, another wonderful 17th century instrument. Mr. Radulesco played a grueling recital of the Bach "Wedge" Prelude and Fugue, "St. Anne" Prelude and Fugue, the most recently discovered Bach piece (from 2007), An Wasserflussen Babylon, AND a work of his own, RESURREXIT. His piece was based on the Easter sequence "Victimae Paschali", and used lots of clusters and special effects. It was something that a lesser composer would have turned into noise, but Radulesco really did a great job with it.



Due to the secularization of Europe, most Dutch churches are shut down. I recall one professor telling us that one of the churches where we had lessons has a congregation of 8 people. The Laurenskerk is now an art museum and concert hall. The church has been completely redesigned - I said it's the only thing worse than what the Reformation did to these places.


It's a pig. Made out of chairs. In a church.

One of the last concerts was an "interpretation concert" where two performers played the same pieces on harpsichord and organ, then entertained discussion afterward as to why they played them as they did. It was interesting, although I found the Muffat fugue to be deadly dull on harpsichord. That and my last class were at the Nieuwe Kerk, which has a cute little organ:



And today, my second day in Paris, I just walked back from the Louvre to my hotel in the Latin Quarter in pouring rain. So I thought it'd be appropriate to post this picture not from today, but after the trip to Alkmaar last week. Due to missing a train, we all wound up in Haarlem rather late. Due to construction on the station, I had to walk 5 blocks or so to get my bicycle, and then it started pouring rain! So this is me much as I am now, after biking about 3 miles in the dark in pouring rain!



I'm going to really miss the great food, organs, and people in Holland, but France is looking like tons of fun! Stay tuned for updates!